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The Traveling Modeler
By Bruce A. Johnston
My work requires a lot of international travel to out-of-the-way places and I often spend
weeks in a hotel with little to do in the evenings and weekends. So among other pursuits
(generally less constructive), I build card models to pass the time. Everything has to pack flat
or small.
Airplanes, railroad stuff, and small ships and buildings are best for travel. I usually can't pack
or find a suitable baseboard for big models, and they take to long to finish (there have been
exceptions). I usually give the finished models away after photographing them. My models
reside in hotel bars and restaurants and other unlikely places all over the world. My traveling
tool kit consists of:
- Small sliding blade knife, the kind where you break off sections along a score line to
get a new sharp edge. These knives and blades can be bought in stationary stores all over
the world. A packet of blades lasts me more than a year.
- X-Acto knife with a dull No. 1 blade for scoring. Handle used for forming cylinders
and curves with sponge (see below).
- 7" aluminum knitting needle, about 5/32" in diameter, the kind with points on both
ends; for creasing, and flattening glued surfaces. Also for forming small cylinders and
burnishing compound curves.
- Steel crochet hook, 7". Used for "pulling through" sections while gluing assemblies.
- 6" pointed stainless steel tweezers.
- 3" x 5" dishwashing sponge with scouring material on one side. Used as a base for
forming curves with scorer handle and creaser. The sponge prevents burnishing.
- 6" cork backed steel rule, for cutting straight lines.
- Round toothpicks for glue application, forming really small cylinders, small gun
barrels etc.
- Kneadable art eraser, for cleaning up. You don't have to rub, just press and lift.
- 6" nail board with a rough and a smooth side for cleaning up edges. One lasts for a
long time.
- Small roll of masking tape for holding stuff, especially butt joints.
- Small bottle of PVA glue. Elmer's in USA, but available in stationary stores most
anywhere (except Albania and Armenia).
All this fits in a fancy carved wood box 3½" x 9" x 2" I picked up in Indonesia a few years
ago. Additional items I pack are:
- Winsor & Newton "Cotman" artist's water color sketch box, for touch-up. 12 pan
colors in a 3" x 6" x 1" plastic box with a fine pointed brush. I paid $17 for it in 1995. I
replaced one of the less used colors with a pan of black paint, available from a well
stocked art supply store. I can match any color with this set, add aging, etc. Actually any
set of cheap water colors would do, but you need a better brush than comes with them.
- Plastic cafeteria tray for a mobile work bench. Put all the stuff on the tray and hide it
on a closet shelf or other place far from the attentions of the cleaning crew.
- Plastic "self-healing" cutting pad, 8x10". I prefer a glass topped table or desk if
available. Cutting on glass gives cleaner edges and keeps the knife sharp longer. Packs
flat in the tray.
Model(s) also pack flat in the tray.
If I have room, a 3" x 3" x 5" "brick" of assorted Legos, including the small Lego base, for
jigs, supports, etc. Other useful stuff found in and around hotels:
- Spoon, for "dishing" compound curves on the sponge.
- Soda or beer bottle, for big curves, wing airfoils etc.
- Tissues, toilet paper, for clean-up.
- 100w light bulb. Hotel desk lamps are always too weak.
- Post cards, shirt cardboard, for jigs and reinforcing stock.
Actually this is pretty well my normal tool kit too, but I add some items for more ambitious
projects, such as acrylic painting medium for some gluing jobs, rigging etc.
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